How to Patch Drywall. Patching drywall is often a top concern when preparing for a move. Drywall is vulnerable to cracks, dents and holes, but you can easily repair it with drywall joint compound and a little sanding and painting.
Materials: For this job you’ll need a scrap piece of drywall, furring strips, joint tape, drywall screws, and joint compound. Cut out a square piece of new drywall that’s slightly larger than the hole. Put this piece on top of the area that needs to be patched, and trace around it with a pencil.
Small nail holes in drywall can be filled in using soap or toothpaste. It sounds bizarre, but the materials dry to form a finish similar to joint compound. Squeeze a small amount of white toothpaste into the hole and smooth over the surface using a putty knife or index card.
Placing drywall sheets against a wall with a lean of less than four inches creates a serious tipping hazard. Placing sheets with greater than a 6” lean can cause significant lateral pressure and cause structural failure. Failure to do so may result in serious harm or injury.
Apply a third layer of compound, thicker than the previous two layers, to the uneven joint with a 10-inch drywall knife once the first two coats are thoroughly dry. Spread from the high side of the uneven joint to the low side, applying more compound as necessary on the low side to blend in with the high side.
Hanging Drywall Vertically: Leave a 1/8-in.
Jamming in a piece that’s too tight will crumble the edge or break out a corner (left). And removing a piece to shave a too-tight edge is messy and time consuming. A loose fit avoids this problem.
It will hold and dry even at odd angles. Use caulk if cracks appear where the ceiling meets the wall. Caulk is flexible and can withstand a slight bit of settlement. Sand, prime and paint the wall after you’ve repaired the crack.
Method 1: Fix a Hole in the Wall with Toothpaste
Believe it or not, toothpaste works wonders. When the paste dries, it forms a finish similar to spackle. Just squeeze the white paste (not the blue gel) into the hole, and smooth it over with a putty knife.
Drywall compounds have shelf lives. While you can technically save drywall compound for years in the right conditions, the reality is that most of the time the shelf life on drywall mud is far shorter. … If you want to ensure your work is warrantied, you have to use drywall compound within its official lifespan.
It’s stored on it’s side (beveled edge up/down) all the time on job sites. Just make sure to protect bottom edge and keep it off the ground if there’s a moisture risk.
If you simply sit it flat on a couple of boards, it will eventually sag on each end and between the boards. If you simply lean it up against the wall, it will curve like the paper backed books on the bookshelf.
On commercial jobs, fire codes often require seams to fall on the entire length of the framing, so the drywall must be hung vertically. … For walls 9 feet high or shorter, hanging the drywall horizontally has a number of benefits. Fewer seams. Horizontal hanging reduces the lineal footage of seams by about 25%.
They’re always spaced either 16 or 24 inches on-center (measured from center to center) along the wall and run between the floor and ceiling. Drywall or lath (for plaster walls) attaches to the edge of the studs. … The center of a stud provides the best support for the fasteners.
Spackle and joint compound are often used interchangeably, and they do perform similar functions—and they’re even often used together on drywall projects. However, each is designed for different, specific purposes.
Can You Drill into a Spackled Hole? A drywall hole that has been filled with spackle will not support a screw. Spackle, also known as joint compound or “drywall mud,” is not as durable as true drywall. Joint compound will shrink and pulverize easily when a screw is driven into it.
Both can be used on drywall– if less than ½ inch. Use the minimalist amount you can for the job as they both cause excess sanding and dust.
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